Golden Brown

Something's going on around here.

Earlier this week I received a phone call and email from the agent with an appointment for an audition for a play that I did in a workshop 5 years ago. Pretty great part. Play had problems. Now after 5 years, it is getting a legitimate production in a legitimate regional theater with it's eye on Broadway I'm sure. Would I audition? Sure I think. I know they were happy with my work. I know that I enjoyed the role.

I look at the breakdown that my agent has sent me for the audition. I am not auditioning for the role that I had played before. I am now auditioning for that character's father. In those long short five years I have aged from brother to father. Not nearly as great a part.

"Ha!" I said out loud. "That's funny." because it is.

I then spent some time plotting dishes for the proposed underground restaurant that I'm opening with a pal that I'm not telling you about right now, because it's underground. But the plan is great. Several courses, you need to sign a confidentiality agreement, know the password, pay in advance. It's sweet. It's exciting. It consumes me.

Then I spent some time working on the food history children's books that I'm doing with Kid Zenith. The start up boutique publishing house has hit a couple of bumps on the startup and is revising it's business plan. May go straight to app for Ipad, may go up as a pay website... there is a lot in flux, but still moving forward and gathering steam despite the hiccups. Sarah, the publisher and CEO has commissioned me to write two other books for them as well. It consumes me.

Then I spent some time working on the TV food show I'm helping to develop, that I'm not comfortable sharing the details of with you because it's such a great idea. The other creatives and I had a meeting in Central Park the other day that went swimmingly and was frankly exciting. We're raising the dough. Planning to shoot in July or August. It consumes me.

I spent mother's day as a sous chef in Long Island working for Chef Louis Bavaro who just this week began his new gig as private chef to the Italian Ambassador at the U.N. There was a lot of wind the night before and we had no power in the house, and yet we found a way to feed all 21 guest an 8 course meal. We used the gas grill creatively. It was like a Top Chef challenge. I wore the white chef's coat, and a hat. I liked it. There was candlelight.

The folks were very Long Island. The hostess asked me in her very Long Island, "Drew, are you from England?"

"No." I replied. "Just pretentious."

It consumes me.

I have other plans, all about food. All that could easily fly and make something. Maybe make a lot. I really like them. They consume me.

The great thing is, all these things, they bring me a kind of titillation, an almost naughty excitement that I'm cheating on the Theater God. But these are the projects that now occupy my mind . And it is much different than focusing on the phone that isn't vibrating because the theater world isn't calling. That way lay sadness and bitterness. I have a feeling this other way lay bliss. And ultimately maybe a way to enjoy the theater again instead of being pissed at it for not providing in the way I thought it should.

You see, I know that if I got that call and email from the agent a couple of months ago, I would've obsessed about the bad luck and the unfairness of it all, the fear of getting older, the fear of losing everything, the fear and the disappointment, the fear and the disappointment, and the fear and the disappointment.

Instead, I sort of laughed about it, and then forgot about it.

Something's going on around here.

When I was a young man, maybe 7 or 8, I would order American Seeds from the back of Boy's Life magazine. I would sell the seeds around the neighborhood and then return the money to the American seed company who would then send me a prize of my choice. I remember getting a fishing pole one year, and another, flippers and a mask. But I also remember feeling like a self made man. Like an entrepeneur. Like I was going places and knew how to make money.

I haven't felt that way in a long time. I like it.

The thing is, and I'm aware of this especially after losing the last big savior theater job a couple of weeks ago, the longer I go, the more I want one of these crazy schemes of mine to hit more than being saved by my heroin/theater addiction. I crave more power, I have really come to resent not having a real creative voice in the project when hired as the actor. I resent also the blue collar-ness of it... I want to get on the other side of the table. I don't ever want to go through this crisis again.

And one other thing. My food is getting really good.

Consume it.


CHEF BOBO'S FRIED CHICKEN (from his incredible book: Chef Bobo's Good Food Cookbook - buy it on Amazon)

1 2 to 3 pound chicken fryer, cut into 10 pieces
4 cups buttermilk
2 tablespoons fine sea salt
2 tablespoons black pepper
1 tablespoon hot pepper sauce (I used Clancy's from Ann Arbor. AWESOME)
3 cloves garlic, smashed
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin.
Canola or safflower oil

1. Wash chicken. Pat dry with paper towels. For marinade, combine buttermilk, 1 tablespoon of the salt, 1 tablespoon of the pepper, hot pepper sauce, and garlic. Place chicken in a larger container. Pour marinade over chicken. Cover and marinate in refrigerator for 24 hours.

2. In a shallow dish combine flour, the remaining 1 tablespoon salt, the remaining 1 tablespoon pepper, garlic powder, mustard, paprika, chili powder, and cumin. Take a pinch of the flour mixture and taste it - it should be a bit salty and peppery.

3, Drain chicken but do not wipe off. Coat the chicken pieces with the flour mixture. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Place a cooling rack in a large baking sheet or jelly roll pan. Set aside

4. pour oil into a deep heavy pot. The oil should not reach more than halfway up the side of the pot. Heat over high heat to 350ºF. Reduce heat to medium. Place the chicken, one piece at a time, in the hot oil. (Be very careful, as the oil will boil up and you don't want it to overflow.) Fry chicken 3 or 4 pieces at a time, until golden brown. Remove chicken from oil, and place on cooling rack.

5.. Once all the chicken has been fired, transfer the baking sheet or jelly roo pan holding the cooling rack to the oven. (This will help crisp the batter on the chicken and let much of theoil drain from the chicken.) Bake until fully cooked (180ºF), about 20 minutes.

BRAISED GREENS

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 pounds collard. mustard, or turnip greens thick stems trimmed, leaves coarsely chopped
2 cups chicken broth
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Melt butter with vegetable oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Ad onion and garlic and saute until tender, about 6 minutes. Add greens and saute until beginning to wilt. Stir in broth; bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until greens are very tender, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. Stir in vinegar. Season with salt and pepper.

CRACK MASHED POTATOES

2 lbs. Red potatoes diced with skins
1 stick butter
Salt and Pepper

Boil the potatoes then drain. Combine with butter and salt and pepper in large bowl. Mash.

TOMATO GRAVY

2 tablespoons pan drippings from fried chicken
1 cup finely diced onion
1 large cloves garlic, finely minced
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme (I used 1 tablespoon fresh)
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 pound tomatoes (peeled, seeded, and chopped into 1/3 inch pieces.)
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup heavy cream

Heat the pan drippings in a heavy non reactive skillet and add the diced onion. Saute over medium high heat for 5 minutes, stirring often. Add garlic, 1 teaspoon of the alt, pepper and thyme, and cook for another 5 minutes. sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring well, for another 2 minutes. Stir in the chopped tomatoes and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook 5 minute longer.

Slowly stir in the milk and heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently for 5 minutes. Taste carefully for seasoning, adding more salt and freshly ground black pepper as needed. Serve hot.

Sin Tacks

I keep my laptop in the kitchen. It sits on the ledge of a cut out window thing between the dining room and the kitchen. The ledge is over the pastry rolling table. This means my keyboard gets very dirty very easily. I have lost the "s" key and the "w" key. there are only little nubs there where there used to be keys. Lately the laptop is behaving quite well, but when it gets tired, it goes like this: "sssssssssssssssssssssssss

sssssssssssssss", and I can't stop it.

This is the first day in a while that there is nothing slated on my calendar. I had a bit of a panic when I woke this morning trying to remember what it was that I had to do today, and there was nothing.

I am dealing with yet another disappointment from the show biz world. Came close, oh so close on a job that would mean significant income and relief for the next year or more and then informed that I was just too darn young. Funny, I feel older than I have ever have before. But, the folks assured my agent that I was "amazing" and "LOVED" (their caps) and that perhaps some day...

Thing is, and I get these maybe once or twice a year, it was a role that was in my bones. Everything about it was easily accessible; the rhythms, the dialect, the emotion.. all right there, and all right there in the audition which is a very rare thing. I felt that there was no hiding or masking to play this character, every blemish that I possess was perfect and only worked... no sucking in the gut necessary....

Besides all this, it's a great role. Role of a lifetime kind of role. But, as is my fashion, I'm letting it go.

Duncan had a rare afternoon field trip to the zoo and I drove him to school having just found out about this new level of the disappointment mountain. I dropped him off and smiled and waved. When I got back to the car I just sort of stopped and sat for a while. Then I went shopping for dinner.

My friend Maggie, years ago, had a shirt that she got in Little Tokyo in L.A. with a picture of James Dean and the phrase "When I feel Sad, I Go to Driving." The Japanese fascination with the look of the English language resulting in some wonderful syntax.

I was thinking through the day making the risotto and steadily feeling better, a slowly rising barometer, "When I feel Sad, I Go to Cooking."

Later after dinner, Duncan was particularly sad, because we had allowed him to watch a Dora episode and he "really, really, really," wanted to watch another, but was not allowed.

He was having a hard time getting over it. I explained that the best thing you can do when you don't get the things you want in life, because that happens a lot, is move on to something you can do that'll make you feel better.

It took some doing, but eventually Duncan, Nicole and I played a vigorous game of Candy Land. I suspect that our family laughter rose up through the stairwell and gently nestled into Shaw's dreams as she slept.

 GRILLED LEMON PORK CHOP WITH GARLIC AND SAGE

4 Thick Cut Loin Pork Chops with Bone
1/2 cup Kosher salt
Juice of 3 Lemons
2 Tbs. fresh sage leaves, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic minced
1/4 cup olive oil
Fresh ground black pepper

In large bowl, dissolve salt in two quarts of water. Submerge chops in brine and let sit for four hours.

Combine lemon juice, sage, garlic, olive oil and pepper in bowl and mix thoroughly.

Transfer chops to zip lock bag and combine with marinade. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

One hour before grilling, remove chops from fridge and allow to come to room temperature.

Grill over direct heat 4 to 5 minutes per side. Let rest for five minutes before serving.


BROCCOLI RABE

One Bunch Broccoli Rabe, stems trimmed
1/4 cup kosher salt
Ice
Olive oil
3 or 4 Anchovy fillets.
2 cloves sliced garlic
Shredded Pecorino Romano.
Salt and Pepper to taste.

Fill a stock pot with water and bring to a rapid boil. Add the kosher salt to water. Add Broccoli Rabe a little bit at a time so as not to lose boil. Cover and let blanch for 1 or two minutes until vibrant green. Remove broccoli from the water and plunge into bowl filled with ice water let cool completely.

Heat about two tablespoons of olive over med. high heat in a heavy skillet. Add garlic and anchovy and saute until fragrant. Add Broccoli Rabe and move about in skillet so that it gets coated with oil. Saute two to three minutes until Broccoli is heated through. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with Pecorino Romano and serve immediately.


ARRANCINNI DI RISO

Adapted from Giada De Laurentis


Vegetable oil, for deep frying
2 large eggs, beaten
2 cups Risotto with Mushrooms and Peas, recipe follows, cooled
1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano
1 1/2 cups dried bread crumbs
2 ounces mozzarella, in 1/2 inch to 1 inch cubes
Salt

Pour enough oil in a heavy large saucepan to reach the depth of 3 inches. heat the oil over medium heat to 350ºF. Stir the eggs, risotto, Pecorino, and 1/2 cup of the bread crumbs in a large bowl to combine. Place the remaining bread crumbs in a medium bowl. Using about 2 tablespoons of risotto mixture for each, for the risotto mixutre into 3/4 inch diameter balls. Insert I cube of mozzarella into the center of each ball. Roll the balls in the bread crumbs to coat.

Working in batches, add the rice balls to the hot oil and cook until brown and heated through, turning as necessary, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rice balls to paper towels to drain. Season with salt. Let rest 2 minutes. Serve hot.

(I preheated the oven to 250º and kept balls in there as they were completed, so that I could time out the rest of the meal. The mozzarella stayed stringy. These were a big hit. As many types of risotto that you can think of will be equal to the variations on this recipe. I'm thinking... jalapeno, seafood..... etc.)

MUSHROOM RISOTTO WITH PEAS

8 cups chicken broth
1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1/4 cup unsalted butter
2 Tbs. olive oil
2 cups finely chopped onion
10 ounces white or crimini mushrooms, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
2/3 cup dry white wine
3/4 cup frozen peas, thawed
2/3 Parmesan or Romano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the broth to a simmer in a heavy medium saucepan. Add the porcini mushrooms. Set aside until the mushrooms are tender. About 5 minutes. Keep the broth warm over very low heat.

Melt the butter in a heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add olive oil. Add the onions and saute until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the white mushrooms and garlic. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the porcini mushrooms to a cutting board. Finely chop the mushrooms and add to the saucepan. Saute until the mushrooms are tender and the juices evaporate, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and let it toast for a few minutes. Add the wine; cook until the liquid is absorbed, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Add 1 cup of hot broth; simmer over medium-low heat until the liquid is absorbed, stirring often, about three minutes. Continue to cook until the rice is just tender and the mixture is creamy, adding more broth by cupfuls and stirring often, about 28 minutes (the rice will absorb 6 to 8 cups of broth). Stir in the peas, Mix in the Romano. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4 Bear Ants

While cooking dinner, I drank a coke too quickly and had terrible bloating gas in my upper abdomen for about twenty minutes. We don't usually have soda in the house, water, juice and milk only. We had ordered chinese the other day and the soda was a bonus. It tasted good. I slammed it.

Nicole was doing schoolwork in the basement, Shaw was in the exer-saucer and shrieking like a pterydactyl, Duncan finished his movie and wanted me to access the special features with the remote ("Dad! Go to the videos!")

Funny how with the raising of the children, you can achieve certain levels of stasis in which one can actually be quite productive, certain luft-pauses when it all works, but then, like the house that is built of the cards, it can all come a crashing on down.

Ten minutes ago, Nicole was studying, I was chopping, Shaw was burbling and Duncan was absorbed. My stomach felt fine then.

Then, Bam! Fluttering lightly yet with violence, down they come!

I said, "Shaw, chill out! Duncan, do it yourself. You're a big boy. You can work the remote." I had serious Dad voice on. With silent inner savagery, I wished Nicole up from the basement.

I lay my spatula down and lay myself down on the kitchen floor on my left side as my cousin Janie told me to do in such times and waited, believing, despite the pain, that this too shall pass.

It did.

We are in special forbearance on our loans, we have modified our mortgage payments somewhat, Nicole is going to grad school on line, we have health insurance through New Jersey Family care, we had enough of a Tax refund to get us through the spring months, we are soldiering on.

Let's have some salmon burgers.

 Modified from Rachel Ray)

1 lb. fresh salmon fillets
2 egg whites, lightly beaten
Handful of parsley leaves, chopped
2 lemons zested and juiced, divided
3 cloves garlic, minced
3/4 cups bread crumbs
Salt and Pepper

4 anchovies, chopped
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. Worcestershire Sauce
2 Tbs. plus 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided
Two generous handfuls Pecorino Romano
2 hearts of romaine lettuce, shredded
1 head radicchio, shredded

Take salmon fillets and pulse several times in food processor until broken up, but still chunky.
In a large bowl, add salmon, egg whites, the zest and juice of one lemon, 2/3 of the total amount of hopped garlic, the bread crumbs and lots of black pepper and a little salt. Mix together and for 4 large or 8 mini patties.

To a salad bowl add the remaining zet and lemon juice, remaining garlic, chopped anchovies, Dijon mustard, and lettucess to the bowl and tos to coat evenly. Season the slaw with salt to taste.

Heat 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in skillet over medium heat. Cook salmon patties 4 minutes each side for large, 2 to 3 minutes for mini.

Serve over slaw as burgers with slaw as garnish.