Please Make Yourself Extremely Comfortable. Please.

I've been fully aware for quite some time the role that cooking plays in my life. I guess I'm most aware when some one else in the house decides that it's their night to cook. Around 4:30 in the afternoon, when prep would usually begin, I pace nervously, I get extremely cranky some might even say "cross", I fidget, I curse... you get the picture. Then, when I eat the dinner that usually Nicole has prepared, I'm in ghastly awe of what a great chef she is. I think, "Who am I kidding? Slaving day after day when she can whip something like this out going from zero to sixty?"

The next day, when I have regained the reins in the kitchen, I will ridiculously put a little more oomph in my usual menu trying desperately and sadly to "one up" and regain an imagined lost territory with some culinary testosterone. I attempt to mask it all in good humor, jolly good fun. But I feel the others in the house seeing through me like cheap muslin. I feel their pity. It is palpable. Palatable but palpable pity.

I cook to assuage. I cook to impress. I cook to satisfy. I cook to occupy. I cook out of curiosity. I cook to seduce. I cook to comfort. Yes, I cook to and for comfort.

Thursday morning we had the saddest news. Paul, Nicole's father, has cancer. He has had a series of tests for the last several months that have all come back negative where cancer was concerned and Thursday morning was going for surgery for a different procedure that the doctors were sure was the issue. When they opened him up they discovered to their shock, that he had cancer.

Because he had been tested so many times already and the tests had all come back negative, I confess to not being too concerned about the procedure that he was going to have Thursday morning. So when the terrible call came from my mother in law Angela letting me know the situation and asking me to tell Nicole who was in the car driving Duncan home from school, well, I wasn't ready. But like all of the great events in life, none of us is ever really ready. Not really. It just suddenly, always suddenly becomes time.

It isn't necessary for me to go into any of the details of our grief that day in this particular forum, other than to note that all comfort that day was derived through necessary occupations. Every duty that normally would be one of the daily drudgery of child rearing was now a gift, now was a blissful momentary occupation that removed one temporarily from active grief. Every diaper, every tissue, every wipe, every explanation to Duncan was a visceral, fierce blessing.

At one point as we were in the eye of the storm, Carrie, who had run home from school the second she heard the news, suggested that tonight was a night for Chinese food. In the moment I agreed. About an hour later though, I knew I had to roast a chicken. I knew it for entirely selfish reasons.

When I was doing Sunday in the Park with George on the old Broadway, I would regularly bring in culinary delights that I had whipped up in the kitchen in Jersey.

"You're so generous!" Dressing room mates would say, slurping down chicken legs or chocolate chip cookies.

"Ha!" I would think. "They fell for it! Now they like me, and now they think I'm a good cook! I win! MWA HA HA HA HA HA!"

I did it for very selfish, self serving, self loving, egotistical, narcissistic reasons.

I needed to roast this chicken selfishly, right now, to feel better. To do something. And then to eat it with my family and have it provide momentary, blissful, albeit fleeting, comfort.

 I have gradually evolved through many roast chicken recipes over the years (Whole pierced lemon in the cavity/butter under the skin with paprika/sitting upright in one of those chicken roasters looking so very civilized in the oven) - this is my current favorite. Juicy and very, very flavorful.

ROASTED MUSTARD TARRAGON CHICKEN (Adapted from Gourmet)

1 chicken 3 1/2 lbs. or larger
salt and pepper
1 bunch tarragon
Dijon Mustard

Preheat oven to 425ºF with rack in the middle
Rub salt and pepper inside cavity of chicken. Stuff bunch of tarragon in the cavity. Truss the chicken and slather mustard all over. Roast until instant read thermometer inserted into fleshy part of the thigh reads 160ºF. For me it was about an hour and 10 minutes.

BEETS AND ONIONS

3 large beets
two or 3 medium onions
2 Tbs. butter
salt and pepper
lemon juice

Boil beets in salted water. Peel two or three onions and boil them in a separate pot in salted water until they star fall apart. Drain the beets reserving 1/2 cup of beet juice. Drain onions and combine with beets, beet juice, butter, salt and pepper to taste and several dashes of lemon juice.

MASHED POTATOES

Listen, all I did was cut up the potatoes with the skin on, boiled them in salted water and then mashed them with 1/2 stick butter and salt. I have fancier mashed potatoes methods, but they are for another day. Duncan went on and on about how delicious these were, so I'm good.

All Hail The King of (Legal) Herbs

I had noticed that Carrie hadn't been eating all her dinner lately. There were significant portions of duck left on the plate, the duck onion soup was eaten but the pork belly pieces went untouched and when she saw me working the duck fat into the mashed potatoes, they received barely a nibble. I tried to see past my rage and realized that Carrie is getting married in January. I remembered my own frugal nibbling prior to my wedding, back when I was a vegetarian. People like to look good when they get married and that trumps any desire for duck fat. It's only after you get married that the duck fat tastes good again. By the way, Carrie looks awesome.

Out of deference to Carrie's feelings, appetite and the sanctity of prenuptial dietary restrictions, I decided we all could use a break from the cream laden, duck fat paved road I'd been driving the family gastric jalopy down lately. We generally have one or two fish nights a week and a vegetarian night as well just to keep our feet on the ground.

Some online tips lead you astray. Tis the truth I'm afraid. I was interested in saving the bumper crop of basil that I had grown over the summer and researched freezing herbs on line. I read that if you freeze the leaves of basil separately on a cookie sheet in the freezer and then place them neatly in a freezer zip lock bag, stacking them like a deck of cards, then you will be able to tap them all winter.

Seemed like a great idea. But alas, the leaves that I have pulled out of the freezer are kind of chewy and papery and while they are edible and retain some flavor, I am not satisfied that they are anything close to the wonder of fresh basil.

Basil, to me, is the king of all herbs. The steak of the herb family. I am always amazed every time I make a pesto that something so flavorful so filling and delicious could really just be a leaf.

Last winter I took all the basil and made a huge batch of pesto that I then put in ice cube trays and transferred in cube form to zip lock bags. Next year I'll do that again. You can just drop a cube to perk up any sauce, cream, tomato or otherwise or use four or five cubes as a pesto proper. Very effective. I have used the papery frozen leaves as final pizza toppings, but am loathe to try them as an actual pesto, perhaps by February I'll give it a go. I suppose I have to try. Maybe the food processor will eliminate the papery quality and we'll be left only with flavor..... Maybe.

I headed to the Super Fine Fare and picked up some whole wheat thin spaghetti. I am always a little less than satisfied with whole wheat pasta with tomato or cream sauces, but I think the nuttiness of the wheat works very well with Pesto. The boxes of pasta now are no longer 16 oz. but 13.25 oz at the same price. Very clever those pasta people. Made me wonder if I should buy two boxes or decrease portion size. In the spirit of the evening I opted for smaller portions.

I have learned the interpretive tap dance of our local supermarkets well enough to not be surprised by the fact that I can pick up banana leaves at the Super Fine Fare, but have to travel to the Eden Gourmet if I want something as exotic as fresh Basil.

Before I left for the super market I took the remaining shrimp from the fajita night out of the freezer and put them in a bowl with the remaining lime juice. When I got home they had already thawed and I gave them a little toss.

I truly don't know how I lived before the food processor, but I do remember being awfully frustrated when I would scan through a recipe and the phrase, i"n the processor combine blah and blah" would pop up. Now, not unlike my cell phone, I can't really conceive of life without the processor.

Again, in homage to basil, it's kind of wonderful how just processing the basil has the same effect as heating olive oil, garlic and onion on a kitchen. The fragrance that whets appetites throughout the olfactory contact zone.

Carrie was delighted by the menu when she came home from school and finished every bite. And we all felt a little self satisfied and more than a little self righteous for having pleased our palates and filled ourselves to the near brim without harming a single duck in the preparation of our herby feast.

 BASIL SPAGHETTI PESTO WITH GRILLED LIME SHRIMP

12 lb. of medium shrimp peeled and de-veined with tails on.
1/2 cup lime juice

4 cloves garlic
Two bunches basil leaves
1 Tbs. Kosher salt
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
couple of handfuls of grated pecorino romano
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Toss shrimp with lime juice in a bowl and let set for a couple of hours.

Pulse basil and garlic in processor until roughly chopped. Add salt, pine nuts and pecorino romano. Turn and processor and slowly dribble in oil. Process until pretty darn smooth.

Fill pasta pot with salted water cook whole wheat spaghetti to al dente and drain.
Toss with pesto.

While water is heating up, fire up the charcoal grill for direct high heat. Remove shrimp from the marinade and put shrimp on skewers. Season with kosher salt and pepper. Grill over direct heat for three minutes each side or until you just know....

Put pasta in large pasta bowl and shrimp over top. Pass more pecorino romano around the table.

What Do You Do With a Ducky Carcass? (Sung to the Tune Of...)

Carrie nailed it the other day, when we came to Friday which is the day off from her internship/graduate study program at Seton Hall. By the by, Carrie is Nicole's second cousin from Missouri who lives with us while finishing up her graduate degree at Seton Hall which is, quite literally down the street. She has been a God send. Not only is she an unbelievable and, at least it seems, cheerfully willing aid to the daily household chore-age, a baby sitter in the pinch, an un paralleled sous chef, an inspiration to us old folks to keep running, she is also unfathomably easy to live with. She leaves in just a little over two weeks for good and we are dreading the day. She will be missed so much. Everyone should be so lucky to have such a graduate student live with them.

Anyway Carrie nailed it. She said that she looks forward to Friday because it's her day off but then when it's here she panics a little cause "What's to do?".

"Ah, Carrie." I said to myself. "Welcome to my world." Even though it is everyday that I am unemployed right now, It's the Saturdays and Sundays that get me. When you're unemployed on a Monday, the call might come for an appointment on Tuesday... but on a Saturday all you can do is wait for Monday when a call might come for Tuesday. Therefore on this last Saturday, before panic could set in, I thought of the duck carcass in the freezer.

At the Super Fine Fare the other day I bought a questionably fresh 10 lb. bag of onions for $1.98 and sometime Saturday morning realized that it was time to modifiy my Tuscan Onion soup recipe to a Tuscan Duck Onion soup. I figured I could use up at least a third of those onions in one go. I pulled that nearly gone carrot and a few stalks of celery from the crisper in the fridge and peeled a couple of garlic cloves. I put the frozen carcass from last week's duck along with the innards and the bones in the stock pot with the veggies and the garlic covered it with some water, brought it to a boil then reduced it to a simmer and walked away.

The recipe calls for prosciutto but I wanted to bring a little more gusto to it and found a piece of smoked pork belly at the Super Fine Fare that did quite nicely.

By the time that I got back from the Super Fine Fare Carrie had revealed her present to Duncan.
"Pixar's Up!" He cried with delight, sounding more than a little like an ad for a delighted child than an actual child.

As the onion simmered and the stock gurgled Duncan snuggled next to Carrie on the couch and Nicole and Shaw rocked on the glider and they all watched Up while the Saturday rain fell.

"Stay in the moment Drew." I said to Drew. The moments are awfully wonderful. For God sake, there's duck broth brewing.

 DUCK BROTH

Duck carcass, bones and innards
A carrot or two
A celery stalk or two
A quartered onion
Couple cloves of garlic
Maybe some thyme
Salt and pepper

Cover the carcass, innards, vegetables and herbs with water in a large stock pot. Bring to a boil then simmer, skimming fat off of top for five to six hours.
Strain broth into a large bowl through a colander. Rinse out the stock pot, then strain broth through a sieve back into the stock pot and boil for ten minutes to concentrate flavors. Season to taste. If necessary drop in a couple of chicken stock cubes to bolster flavor.

TUSCAN DUCK ONION SOUP

2 Tablespoons Duck Fat.
3 lbs. white onions, peeled, thinly sliced
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 tomatoes diced
8 cups duck broth
1/2 pound smoked pork belly cut into 1 inch dice
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
Pecorino Romano

In skillet fry diced pork belly until it begins to crisp. Drain on paper towel and set aside.

Melt duck fat in heavy large pot over medium- high heat. Add onions and saute until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Add wine, simmer until it evaporates, about 4 minutes. Add tomato and saute 1 minute. Remove from heat. Transfer 1 cup onion mixture to blender. Add 1 cup duck broth and puree until smooth. Return puree to pot. Add remaining broth, pork belly, and thyme. Bring soup to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer 30 minutes to blend flavors.

Ladle soup into bowls and top each serving with pecorino romano.


Serve with a great loaf of bread and maybe some fancy cheese.

Just Another Fajita Friday

It starts as many mornings do once the entire cast is present. Duncan in his pajamas at the table with his bagels and eggs. (One toasted thomas mini bagel topped with a scrambled egg, one glass orange juice and vitamin.) Nicole in pajamas usually with Shaw in one hand and grande size coffee (2 % milk and two teaspoons sugar or other sweetener) in the other. Carrie up from the basement "apartment" in pajamas sitting across from Duncan at the table eating cereal (cinnamon Harvest crunch with skim milk and coffee) and possibly still reading whatever book has sunk deep tentacles into her this week. I, in house clothes and slippers with coffee (2%) not having had breakfast (have to wait an hour after thyroid medication which I take immediately upon waking) having run through emails and notifications will ask the floor if anyone has a preference or an idea about dinner.

Carrie clears her cereal bowl to the kitchen and gets a banana for breakfast "dessert" and asks if there is any salmon left in the freezer.
I tell her there is not.
Nicole asks, "Well, what is in the freezer?"

I look. "Pork chops, 1 lb. ground beef, two whole chickens, chicken parts and one small flank steak."

"Ah!" Says Nicole, partial to flank steak. "What about fajitas?"

"Ah!" Says I, and we are off.

I have two hours before I have to take the train to the city for a couple of commercial auditions and quickly find a marinade online, draw up a grocery list and head to the Super Fine Fare. I snare all ingredients and notice that they have sour oranges in the produce department. I have an authentic yucatan pulled pork recipe (thanks Martha) just itching to be brought to life that calls for sour oranges... good to know.

I get back to the house with about an hour and fifteen before the train, which means 45 minutes to get this marinade happening and get some breakfast. Due to the smallness of the flank steak we have decided to do a surf and turf fajita and I pull some of the shrimp out of the freezer in the garage.

Duncan confuses shrimps with mushrooms. Don't know why, but he will call a shrimp a mushroom but never a mushroom a shrimp. There is, of course, a phonetic link, "m" sound" and "sh" sounds might be the root cause of the mix up, if you want to call it that. I do agree with Dunc that there is something vaguely mushroomy about shrimps and furthermore nothing shrimpy about mushrooms. Whatever the cause, I love that Duncan calls shrimps mushrooms. One day he'll get it straight once and for all, and we'll either remember or we won't that he used to have the confusion or perhaps the clarity. Why just last year he called scarecrows scarecrumbs. But this year they were firmly scarecrows, and it wasn't until Nicole reminded me that I remembered scarecrumbs. I would have traveled on and completely left scarecrumbs behind, and who would want to do that? You welcome, relish and delight in every inch of the growth when you're Dad, and yet there something pretty awesome about scarecrumbs or remember when he called spiders "busters"?

Does make me want to come up with some sort of recipe where you try to fuse mushroom and shrimp so that they're almost interchangeable.... hmm.

I get into the suit, get to the train and get to the city. It feels good to be looking for work because one would like to believe that's how one will find work. Auditioning for the commercials sometimes feels like playing the Lotto. But I'm anxious to try the "trick" that a David, a friend who is very successful in winning the commercial Lotto revealed to me at the Roundabout reading the other day. When you go into the room to be filmed for the commercial you have to "slate." Which means they point the camera at you and you say your name. It's humiliating. I dread it almost as much as when on the first day of rehearsal you go around in a circle and say your name and what role you'll be playing. I never hear anyone else's name because I am so full of dread as the wheel spins my way. There is always someone who makes a joke and gets a room laugh, and always someone who speaks too softly and too quickly and obviously wants the circle to move on. I'm the too softly too quickly one.
Don't get me wrong, I love attention and I love to interact, I just like to feel it out first. I just have to work first and introduce later. Ugh, those meet and greets. Ugh.

Anyway, slating. The trick that David, the highly successful commercial actor told me the other day is to not try to hide your disdain, your discomfort, your, yes, hatred when you slate. Rather look in the camera, say your name and instead of doing "fake smiley intro hey I'm a nice guy don't you want to work with me Drew McVety", give "I hate you for asking me to say my name it's humiliating either you want me or you don't and I wish to Christ I didn't have to subject myself to this B.S. just to try and feed my children Drew McVety". The theory being: allowing yourself that freedom is a gift to yourself and will free you up in your actual work on the copy and further has the added benefit of making you infinitely more desirable to the commercial execs who review the tapes later because you look like you hate them. So of course they want you. Who wants someone who wants to be wanted?

I get into the first commercial audition and slate. I show proper disdain. It feels great. I don't think the rest of the audition went terribly well, but maybe the disdain will be enough for a call back.

I walk down 8th Ave. from Times Square to 21st street for the next audition and call Nicole at home to check in. The children are well. I ask her about the marinade, she says it looks good and the smell of the garlic in the bowl is good too.

"Garlic? Did I not put that in the bag?"

"No. I wondered about that but I assumed you knew what you were doing."

"Why in God's name would you think that? Could you put it in for me and give it a good massage?"

God love Nicole and thank God I called. How could I forget the garlic?

I do the second audition disdaining through my slate and the actual copy goes pretty well on this one, so who knows? I make it back to Penn Station in time for the 3:27 train and am back in South Orange and home by 4:30.

There is a light rain and wind as I light the charcoal and fire the grill. I contacted my old friend Barbara, who is the chef/owner of La Palapa (fantastic, authentic Mexican) earlier in the day for some ideas and she suggested the spring onion idea below. She said she had other more spicy ideas that wouldn't sit too well with mother's milk right now.
I get Carrie to man the corn tortillas in the kitchen while I hit the grill on the deck. Crazy, hopeful satisfaction and happiness I feel on the deck with the charcoal and the scotch in the wind and the rain.

FAJITA MARINADE (From Rockin Robin's Cooking Mexican Recipes)
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 bottle of beer
1 1/2 tsp. chile powder
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. oregano leaves
3 green onions chopped
1 jalepeno, seeded and minced
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/3 cup olive oil
1 Tbs. fresh cilantro chopped

GRILL
Flank Steak
Bunch of medium shrimp peeled and deveined tails on.

SAUTE
2 medium yellow onion sliced thin
1 green 1 red and 1 yellow bell pepper

Corn Totillas

Mix marinade in zip lock bag. Perforate flank steak all over with tip of knife and place in marinade with shrimp. Marinade for several hours or overnight.

Grill the flank 4 minutes each side over direct heat. then let sit on indirect portion of grill.
Skewer shrimp and gill 3 minutes each side over direct heat.
In large skillet saute onions and peppers in a little oil.

BARBARA'S GRILLED SPRING ONIONS

1 bunch spring onions
Olive oil for brushing
Squeeze of lime

Brush oil over onions, grill over direct high heat 2 minutes flip and another minute or so. Squeeze lime over and serve.

FRESH TOMATO AND CORN SALSA (From the book that came with my cuisinart.)
1 small onion, peeled, cut into 1 inch pieces
1/3 cup fresh cilantro
1 medium jalapeno pepper, seeded cut into 1 inch pieces
3 medium vine ripened tomatoes cut into 1 inch pieces
1 1/2 tsp. fresh lime juice
2/3 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
3/4 tsp. salt

In processor, place onion, cilantro and jalepeno in work bowl. Process until finely chopped, about 5 seconds. Scrape work bowl. Add tomatoes and lime juice. Pulse until tomatoes are coarsely chopped, about 5 - 7 times. Add corn and salt, pulse once to just combine. Let sit for 1 hour before serving to allow flavor to develop.

Sweet Mother Of Gnocchi

It was a day of active child rearing. It was yesterday. Nicole had been called into the city for some theater business and I had sole charge of Shaw the 6 week old and Duncan the four year old. I managed. I brought the reserved breast milk in the fridge to room temperature gently in a bowl of warm water. Shaw ate/drank the milk. She burped. She pooped. She burped again. She wanted more.

Duncan wanted to watch 101 Dalmatians. I acquiesced. Fine film that it is. Although I would have preferred a more wholesome, verdant nurturing activity for Duncan like quietly rubik's cubing while the Paganinni Violin Caprices play gently in the background, him humming along and abstractedly and unknowingly articulating the left hand fingering all the while cubing, the idea of him settling in for some classic Disney leaving me free to deal with Shaw's apparently increasing appetite seemed an appropriate 90 minute parenting solution. Duncan's greatest skill by far is movie watching, he is truly a top notch movie watcher and not above shushing a distracting Dad.

Shaw reiterated her need for more of absent mother's milk. I brought the second and final reserve bottle to room temp and lord be if she didn't down that one as well. Nicole calls and says they're running behind and she'll be getting back out to South Orange a little later.
Okay I say. For what else is there to say?

This is not to be a day for cooking. This is not to be a day for writing. This is a day to be a parent and day to parent. A day for the nitty gritty of parenting. Probably the kind of day I will remember far too well when I am 87 and wish to God I had again, and yet in the moment of the day all I feel is increasingly frustrated, frazzled and less than fruitful.

I think the cooking is important. I like to make the food. It eases some of the inherent Dad/husband guilt. I can't make the breast milk that Shaw craves at 3:00 AM, but I can make a mean spaghetti and meatballs that Duncan craves at 6:00 PM, and that should count for something. I think having the dinner at or around 6:00 with everyone present kind of makes for instant family. Kind of like those Tina Landau viewpoints make for instant ensemble. It's my thing and I do love it. And I plan to keep the dinner thing alive in our house.
And cooking the real bacon keeps me rather sane when I'm not bringing the metaphorical stuff home.

After the movie is over, Pongo has saved the day and there is indeed a Dalmation Plantation, after Duncan and I do every trick we know to keep Shaw's 6 week old mind off of her gnawing hunger and I become increasingly more curt in my correcting Duncan's gender pro noun problem, "She's hungry, not He's. Shaw is a girl so you say She.", after we attempt the pacifier for the umpteenth time and she just isn't buying it anymore, after Shaw has descended into full-on wail, Nicole mercifully enters. We place the babe on her breast, a temporary peace is restored and we have cold leftover duck for dinner.

Today, when I wake, I have the exceedingly pleasant and comforting notion that I will have time to cook and that enough time has passed to allow tonight to be pasta night. We try to keep it to one night a week. If I could I would eat it seven days a week, and there have been times, earlier, more metabolically agreeable times, when pasta every night was possible.

As I'm driving Duncan to preschool nursing my stiff neck, a legacy of the hours of Shaw burping yesterday, I am thinking of pasta. I think... Putanesca? The very Novemberness of this day makes me remember the home made sweet potato gnocchi I have in the freezer and wonder if maybe that would pair up with some pancetta and peas and cream. Nothing sticks yet but maybe there is something I can do with the duck fat....

SWEET POTATO GNOCCHI WITH SLAB BACON, KALE AND TARRAGON

Wow, This was one of those recipes that just simmered on the back burner of my mind all day and by the time dinner rolled around, it just rolled out of the kitchen as if we made it every night. The duck fat added a rustic, idiosyncratic dimension to the overall flavor of the sauce that I was frankly, very proud of.

GNOCCHI (try the sauce here or try mine below)

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/40-a-day/sweet-potato-gnocchi-recipe/index.html

SAUCE
2 Tbs. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 garlic cloves roughly chopped
2 c. chicken stock
I bunch Kale cut into two inch ribbon

1/2 lb. slab bacon cut into 1 inch cube
2 med. onion finely sliced
1 red pepper finely sliced
1 yellow pepper finely sliced
Salt and Pepper to taste
1 c. heavy cream
2 Tbs. duck fat
3 Tbs. chopped fresh chives
3 Tbs. chopped fresh Tarragon

Place a large stock pot of salted water on the stove to boil.

In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add garlic and saute until fragrant (about 30 seconds to a minute). Add chicken stock and heat until boiling. Add Kale in batches until all is wilted. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally until tender.

In a large skillet, heat bacon over medium high heat until fat is rendered (about 6 minutes). Add onion, red pepper, yellow pepper and salt and pepper and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add Kale with juices and bring mixture to boil.
Reduce heat to medium and add cream and duck fat. Simmer.

Drop gnocchi into the boiling water and when it floats, remove with strainer and add to the sauce.

Once all gnocchi is in sauce bring heat to high and heat through. Toss with tarragon and chives and serve in a large pasta bowl.

Duck Day

MENU: Roast duck, mashed rutabaga with caramelized shallots and pecorino romano, mixed greens (Lacinato kale and collard greens).

It wasn't until I stumbled into the duck idea that the day had anything resembling focus, anything resembling purpose. Now I can safely say, this is the day the duck hath made. The 6.5 lb. Long Island Duckling is in the oven now doing the second hour of the 300º four hour roast. The first hour is spent breast side up, the second breast side down and so on for four cycles. At the end of the four hours you "blast" the duck with 400º to extra crisp the skin and add a glaze.

As the web site that is nursing me through my delicate maiden duck voyage suggested, I fried the duck liver in butter, garlic, salt and pepper tossed it in the food processor and Nicole and I ate it on some toasted Arnolds bread for a snack. Since that very positive experience, I'm a little giddy with pate possibilities...

I took the extra fat that I trimmed off of the bird and rendered it for later use with the mashed rutabaga. Not sure that I did it correctly in that the web site is a little unspecific about amounts.... though I sort of like that.

Kitchen timer just went off. We are turned breast side up again now and into the third cycle. Duncan ran into the kitchen as I was 'flipping the bird" and we had a talk about the duck which he suggested was chicken.
I said "No. It's a duck."
He said, "What's a duck?"
I said, "You know what a duck is, it's a bird."
He said, "Oh. This is a duck?"
"Yes."
"Oh."

I wasn't sure how far to pursue this - the ducks that we've seen at the pond by Flood Hill, the Click Clack Moo duck, I sure as hell didn't want to bring up Donald. Duncan had a bit of a weep last summer when the grilled peppers and sauteed carrots we picked from our garden made their way to the table.
"They were my friends." He wept. So I didn't want to press the duck issue, best to get it into his four year old tummy first and save the moral dilemmas for another day.

Having never bought a duck before, wasn't sure how much they cost. I went to the Whole Foods, thinking that's where the duck would be, armed with the fifty dollar bill the Roundabout Theater company gave me yesterday. I was asked to do a fancy reading of a Kaufman and Hart play in the fancy new Henry Miller theater with many fancy folks: at least three Tony winners, two Oscar winners, and even a Pulitzer prize winner all in one reading. While it all passed pleasantly enough at the time, I woke up at around 4:30 AM feeling generally.... less than. Promptly at 7:00 AM When Duncan and I did the morning breakfast routine of bagels and eggs, with me breaking a glass even before coffee and forgetting that it was Tuesday and that means garbage and doing that Dad cursing under his breath thing I do as I dragged the can to the curb in my slippers..... I needed something. This day was headed down and taking me with it.

It wasn't until I was sitting in the glider next to Shaw's crib and glancing at the copy of Julie and Julia my mother in law left here a couple of weeks ago and simultaneously getting Shaw to nap....that the day's savior appeared...
"We're having Duck!"

I took the Roundabout fifty to Whole Foods and found nary a duck. Have to say.... Whole Foods doesn't always come through with what I'm looking for. Whole Foods always has something I didn't think of, like Lacinto kale, but quite often not what I went there for. Today that was duck. Whole Foods did have rutabaga and some French rolls. But the duck was bought at Eden Gourmet. The Whole Foods bill was roughly $20, the Eden Gourmet duck came in @ $32. It seemed well.... fated? Ordained? A charming coincidence? In any case, I read a Kaufman and Hart Play at the Henry Miller Theater last night and on their sweet $50 we eat duck tonight!


CREAMED RUTABAGA

3 large Rutabaga chopped into 2 inch dice
2 Tbs. Olive Oil
2 Tbs. Butter
4 to 5 Shallots thinly sliced
salt and pepper to tasted
2 tsp. sugar
1/4 cup
Pecorino Romano
2 Tbs. duck fat

Fill large stockpot with salted water and heat to boiling. Add rutabaga and cook until fork tender roughly 20 to 25 minutes.

Heat Oil and Butter in meduim sauce pan over medium high heat. Add shallots when butter is melted and cook until shallots are soft (3 minutes). Add salt, pepper and sugar. Reduce heat to medium low and cook, stirring often until light mahogany brown.

Drain rutabaga in colander. Add rutabaga, shallot, Pecorino Romano and duck fat to food processor. Process until smooth. Serve immediately.


MIXED GREENS

2 Tbs. Olive Oil
2 garlic cloves sliced
2 c. chicken stock
4 bunches of even parts Collard, Kale, Mustard or Turnip greens cut into 2 inch ribbon.

Heat olive oil in medium sauce pan over high heat. Add garlic and cook over high heat until fragrant (30 sec. to 1 minute). Add stock and bring to boil. Add greens in batches until fully wilted. Cover, and reduce heat. Simmer covered for 20 to 30 minutes until tender.

ROAST DUCK

http://www.thehungrymouse.com/home/2009/02/11/the-best-way-to-roast-a-duck-hello-crispy-skin/